The Big Easy

What a crazy, explosive, thunderous couple of days we've just experienced!

When we last wrote, we were waiting out a thunderstorm on Pecan Island. Little did we know that our Louisiana experience would entail a lot more thunderstorm patience. We're with Beyonce though- give us lemons and we'll make lemonade. 

We rode through some real bayou conditions on our way from Pecan Island to Lafayette. Lafayette, LA is known for being the heart of Cajun country, and although it wasn't on our initial list of places to visit, it only seemed right to spend some time in such a cultural center while passing so closely by it.

Pelican Elvis

Another reason to visit Lafayette is that it's the home of many a Potsdam, NY transplant! We rolled into town and headed to David's house for some refreshing drinks and relaxation on his porch. We hadn't met him before, but he knew Will's parents and made us feel right at home. Josh Lazo, a family friend of Will's, has called Lafayette his home for the past few years too. He brought us over to Walter and Mary's place where we would spend the night.

We shouldn't be surprised by southern hospitality anymore, nonetheless I am always taken aback by the kindness and generosity extended our way. Walter and Mary treated us to red beans and rice, a Louisiana classic, and we lounged with them on their back porch as musicians began to pour in. Before we knew it, Josh, Walter, Ashley and Hoagie were treating us to a jam session/ debut of their new band. They don't have a name yet, but once they do I plan to look them up! 

The next morning, Josh took us to Lake Martin, a rookery near town. We marveled at spoonbills, alligators, and ibis. We hit up Hub City Diner to fuel up for our impending voyage half way to the Big Easy. It was there we ate our first (and NOT last) beignets. 

Lake Martin

We rode to Morgan City mostly on 182. We headed right for the Red Roof Inn, where they gave us a great deal and a nice clean room (only $40!). Everyone we met told us that we needed to get crawfish before we got as far east as NOLA. Who are we to disagree? Susie's Seafood was right down the road and came high recommended. We ate 8 lbs of crawfish that night. They were unbelievable. The waitress taught us how to eat them and later complimented us on our skills. You learn fast when you're hungry. 

8 pounds

Covered in spices

Very happy!

  

On Friday we rode into New Orleans following 90, more or less. We came in on a beautiful bike path along the levy, but eventually had to face reality. The Mississippi River was between us and our eventual beds, and we'd need to cross it, Friday rush hour or not.

Huey P Long bridge. Emphasis on the long.

We crossed the Huey P Long bridge into town as cars raced by, the sun pounded down, and sweat flowed into our eyes. Another levy bike path led us into Audubon Park, then through the park to Saint Charles Avenue. Huge mansions and enormous oak trees banked our route. Then we briefly rode through Bourbon Street. It was only 6:30pm, but nearly impassible. Drunken crowds deterred us and we found smoother sailing to our destination in the seventh ward neighborhood.

Storms. Many storms.

Our hosts in New Orleans are Kelsey, Luke, their sweet baby Mary, and sometimes Luke's son Roscoe. Kelsey and I go back to our rabble rousing days at SUNY Binghamton and it was great to see how her life has grown and changed since she moved down south. 

No rest for the weary! We missed my uncle and his wife while they were in NOLA earlier in the week (the aforementioned thunderstorm slowed us down too much), but we got here in time to meet up with my best friend since age three, Sienna, and her friend Kara. These two teachers were kicking back on their spring break, and we all had a delicious dinner and drinks at the Rum House. 

Saturday morning we got to relax with Kelsey and her family, eating breakfast and catching up. Then we all piled into the truck and went to a few garden work days to celebrate Permaculture Action Day. We explored two great urban farms and did some transplanting, weeding, hanging out, eating, and meeting excellent folks.

That afternoon it poured. It was a great opportunity to rest and read a bit at Kelsey's house as we recharged to go out again later. It rained so hard that the huge New Orleans Jazz Fest had to cancel its two main headliners for the night- Stevie Wonder and Snoop Dogg.

Once we had built up our energy some more, we went out with Will's friend from high school, Salem. He went to Tulane for college and stayed for medical school. He's about to leave for Florida, and we're glad we caught him while we could. He brought us to the famous Jacques Imo's restaurant. We were really rolling the dice on this one- the restaurant is known for its long waits even during the non-Jazz Fest season. We got to stroll around the neighborhood with some drinks while we waited for over two hours, and we had built up huge appetites by the time our table opened up.

It was worth the wait! Even the free cornbread muffins they brought us were extraordinary. Will's barbecue shrimp, my fish with mussels and shrimp, and Salem's lamb were so delicious that the wait didn't matter anymore. I was also not surprised in the least to see our first famous face of the trip. Maybe Jazz Fest brought him in, maybe it was the food, but I was super excited to see Craig Robinson (he plays Darryl on The Office).

On Sunday we got breakfast with Kelsey and Mary at the Buttermilk Drop Cafe and were walking home when we encountered Kelsey's friend who works for RUBARB Community Bike Shop (Rusted Out Beyond All Recognition Bikes). They had free tickets to Jazz Fest, and the torrential rain had scared off some of their participants, so she gave us some extra tickets!

Walking with Kelsey between storms

We waited for the rain to clear, but it quickly became apparent that if we wanted to go to Jazz Fest we were going to have to be alright with getting soaked. So be it! We donned rain gear and grimaces, and walked over.

Neil Young was playing to a crowd ankle deep in mud and water, and we couldn't get close enough to see him at all, barely close enough to hear him well. That was alright by me- I was more excited to splash over to the Blues Tent and see the great Mavis Staples. It was pretty dry under the tent and the crowd was giddy with joy- grateful to be out of the rain and awestruck by Staples' incredible voice.

We saw a few more acts but couldn't hold out too long. The rain, the chill, and my burgeoning head cold had us walking home after only a couple of hours, but we feel so lucky to have gotten to go at all, let along for free! Thanks, RUBARB!  We capped Sunday off with a prime Game of Thrones session with Salem at his place uptown.  What a day!

Beyonce's NOLA house!

On Monday we finally had a clear day and hit up some of the NOLA sights. We went to Camellia Grill for breakfast, then Humble Bagel for brunch. Don't judge us, we're touring. We rode by Beyonce's New Orleans mansion in the Garden District, then Cafe Du Monde for beignets and coffee with Salem. We walked around the French Quarter with Salem, checking out the market, some crazy antique stores, and went to the top of the Omni Royal Hotel for some amazing views of the Mississippi River and the city.

Compulsory Bourbon St. drink on Saturday night

View from Omni Royal

We finally had clear forecasts on Tuesday and hit the road. We send a lot of gratitude to Kelsey and Luke for hosting us, feeding us, and showing us around their neighborhood. I'm so glad we got to meet Roscoe and little Mary!

Mississippi, here we come.

-SLL

Moar benya plz