That famous southwest hospitality

Dear Readers,

After our harrowing ride on I-10 we had a less than refreshing afternoon in a Kmart parking lot trying to fiddle with tires and tubes so that Will's bike would make it to Phoenix. We were finally in Arizona, and after hours on the interstate with bike issues, were ready to relax... just kidding! We had to go to the world's ickiest laundromat and try to remove some of the road dirt from our clothes.

Road dirt, for the uninformed, is worse than nature dirt because it's mixed with oil and grease and it doesn't come out quite as easily.

Therefore it was with heavy hearts and merely cleanish clothes that we rolled the last few miles to our destination- a warm showers find that boasted a spot to camp in the yard behind a bait shop.

Our spirits lifted immediately upon arriving at B&B Live Bait. About a dozen people were hanging out eating, drinking, and generally merry-making while blasting Johnny Cash. Our first fellow bike tourist was there, 21 year-old Brian from Long Island, and he showed us around. I think the subsequent shower I had was one of the top 10 in my life so far.

We set up our tent on a deck out in a pond and woke on Easter Sunday to the sound of ducklings learning to chirp. The folks at the bait shop were welcoming, warm, and incredibly kind. We're so grateful for their hospitality and would recommend that spot to anyone going across country through the south.

Easter ducklings!

We rode hard on Easter and finally came into Salome, Arizona just as the sun was setting. We camped in Centennial Park and met our second fellow tourist, Jimi. We hope to run into him again since he too is heading our way. I fell asleep to the sound of coyotes howling eerily close by, and tried to imagine what I'd do if it turned out they had an appetite for Listers or Tritharts.

Priorities.

Today we biked a beautiful 50 miles on Rt 60 and ended in Wickenburg. We would have loved to get as far as Phoenix, but intense winds from the southeast (exactly our intended direction) meant that Wickenburg was all we could do for the day. We had planned on camping in a town park, but while asking around, a woman waived us over and invited us to stay at her place.

To the non-bike tourist, this invitation might take some consideration. Stranger danger, you know? Well, the fact that the campsite in town had no showers or water at all was a strong motivation, and the when it came down to it, Will and I didn't even make eye contact before asking for the address and heading there.

Kathy and Mike have been so welcoming! We're so glad to have such a beautiful place to stay tonight. It is FULL OF BOOKS and has a waterfall/ fountain, and their dog is so cute. It rules.

We'll go to bed tonight so grateful that trust, hospitality, and generosity are so strong in this world.

-SLL